Hidden gems and royal connections around Kensington High Street

If you’re a fan of the royals and history look no further than Kensington where even some of the lampposts are topped by a crown. I noticed this as I sat enjoying a sumptuous afternoon tea in the Origin restaurant in the Royal Garden Hotel, which sits beside one of London’s most sumptuous palaces, a home to members of the royal family past and present.

Indeed during my short break in the borough, it was hard not to find royal connections in everything I did.

My room’s large picture window gave a spectacular view over Kensington Gardens with Kensington Palace, also just a few minutes’ walk away. Although I’d previously walked along the Gardens’ flower lined pathways nearest the High Street, I didn’t realise just how big this 265-acre green space is.

It began life as one of King Henry VIII’s many hunting parks and was actually part of Hyde Park until, in 1689, King William III and his wife Queen Mary decided to build a new home – Kensington Palace – next to the park. Then another queen – Caroline, wife of George II – created the winding Serpentine in 1728, one of the first artificial lakes in the country.

It was Queen Victoria, who was born and grew up in Kensington Palace, who commissioned the beautiful Italian Gardens and the glittering Albert Memorial. The Sunken Garden in front of the palace is where I found the statue of Princess Diana. The Diana Memorial Fountain is at the far end of the park as is The Diana Princess of Wales Memorial Playground.

The park’s most famous fictional resident, Peter Pan, can be found down by Long Water. The statue was donated by author J M Barrie who lived just across the road from the park which inspired his work.

I’d highly recommend a visit to the palace itself highlighting William and Mary’s separate apartments and rooms associated with Queen Victoria, as well as the awe-inspiring Jewel Room with pieces given to Queen Victoria by her adoring husband Prince Albert.

The Dress Codes exhibition, on until November 30, examines the codes and conventions of royal clothing. I particularly enjoyed seeing some of Diana Princess of Wales’ iconic dresses and marvelled at how tall she was! Also rather poignant were the matching Liberty print dresses worn by the late Queen and Princess Margaret in 1936 as young girls. A black mourning bodice and a black dress worn by Queen Victoria was equally fascinating. She was not tall! I marvelled at the exquisite Spitalfields silk from the 1700s re-used for a fancy dress outfit at an 1845 ball thrown by Queen Victoria. Even in those times recycling was fashionable it seems.

After a lot of walking during a delightful first day, it was great just to take a very short walk to my dinner destination for the evening - Dishoom, Kensington. This art deco delight is the home of delicious Indian food that evokes the era of 1940s Bombay with its love of high tempo jazz. This amazing eaterie is both an assault on the senses and delight for the taste buds. Much like you might imagine bustling Bombay at night, it’s hard to hear yourself talk, but who cares when the food is this delicious? From a packed, unusual and authentic menu, I went for the Chicken Ruby - ‘a good and proper curry redolent with spice and flavour’, a favourite among punters. And the jazz band played on during my meal. An unforgettable night, not to be missed.

My second day was no less interesting. Following a hearty breakfast at the Royal Garden Hotel, it was an easy walk just off Kensington High Street to the first of two houses that are time capsules of the Victorian era. The first, Leighton House, was one of a group of artists’ homes built in this area.

Visiting Leighton House and Sambourne House, the historical artist studio-homes of celebrated painter Frederic Leighton (1830-1896), and Punch magazine illustrator Edward Linley Sambourne (1844-1910), feels like you have stumbled on hidden gems. These ‘celebrities of the Victorian era’ created and continued to enhance their fabulous homes during their lifetimes.

Leighton became ‘eminent in art’ with Queen Victoria buying his first major painting in 1855 and eventually became President of the Royal Academy of Arts. He travelled the world, collecting art works and created a home that is a work of art in itself. The sumptuously decorated Arab Hall is jaw-dropping. A current exhibition is Leighton and Landscape: Impressions from Nature.

Your combined ticket also takes you to nearby Sambourne House. Royal connection: over generations this was the much-loved home of the family of Princess Margaret’s husband Antony Armstrong-Jones. If you love everything about Victorian interiors as I do this is pure joy to behold.

An unexpected added extra on my trip to this quiet Holland Park street was a truly impressive display of wisteria blooms on a house opposite. However, I had to compete with several ‘influencers’ for a chance to photograph it!

And this brings me nicely full circle back to the excellent Royal Garden Hotel and my afternoon tea - another work of art. It seemed a crime to dismantle it by eating it. Service in this hotel, as you might imagine, is superb. Nothing too much trouble with friendly staff members always on hand.

Travel facts

More information about Kensington High Street at https://highstreetkensington.co.uk

Discover more with the handy downloadable map

Wellness Week Monday, May 12 - Sunday, May 18: https://highstreetkensington.co.uk/wellness-week-in-kensington/

Activities will run throughout the week including taster sessions, special offers, free experiences and exclusive events highlighting why the destination is London’s go-to health, wellbeing and fitness spot.

A lead in price for a twin, park-facing room at the Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High Street, W8 4PT, is from £259, including breakfast. See www.royalgardenhotel.co.uk.